IE

Industrial Engineering

Needed Industrial Engineering (IE) Terms Mostly Used in Apparel Industry

Very basic apparel industrial engineering terms discussed with example for clear understanding. List of terms are:

1. Standard minute value (SMV)
2. Efficiency
3. Line target
4. CPM & CM
5. CM/COM/MC
6. Broad calculation of garments cm
7. Conventional vs modern profit theory
8. Cost of making (CM) rule
9. Work study
10. Time & motion study
11. Line balancing

1. Standard Minute Value (SMV)

• SMV defined as the term Standard Minute Value, is mostly used in the garments industry and it is a common measurement calculated by the Industrial Engineer. Generally, SMV indicates the time taken to make garments by the workers using the right types of machinery.
• SMV = BASIC TIME + (BASIC TIME × ALLOWANCE)
• Suppose to complete an operation, a standard operator takes 1 minute.
• We put 15% allowance (Men, M/c & Time)
• SMV=1+(1×.15) Min 
  =(1+.15) Min 
  =1.15 Min
• GMT SMV is the sum of SMV for all M/c & Manual operation to complete an item

Related Terms of SMV

• Standard Operator: For a specific item & style, the potential operator who can give maximum output with the best quality & can improve productivity.
• Let’s see an Example for better understanding,
• Batsman faces 10 balls to score 5 Runs
• Batsman faces 10 balls to score 12 runs
• Batsman faces 10 balls to score 10 runs.
• Obviously 2nd one is the potential batsman who uses his
• Inputs (balls) to get maximum output (Runs)

• Pre-defined Conditions: On time input arrival, single piece flow, running m/c conditions, defined quality status, etc. are called pre-defined conditions.
• Basic Time: Actual time to complete an operation. In another word, basic time is the pick & drop time including an operation for quality output.

                        Basic Time= Pick time + Operation + Drop time;

                        Result , Input=Output with required quality

• In a broad sense , a GMT SMV=Sum of all operation SMV, not SMV of GMT + allowance.

2. Efficiency

• Efficiency defined as ‘’The comparison of what is actually produced or performed with what can be achieved with the same consumption of resources (Men, M/c, Material, etc. )’’
• Efficiency = Earned Minute/Available Minute
• Earned Minute = Production (Pcs) x SMV
• Available Minute = Manpower (Helper + Operator) x Working Time (Minute)

Calculation of Efficiency Percent

• Suppose any GMT item SMV is 5.5 (For any fixed style SMV always fixed)
• We use 22 Manpower(Operator & Helper) to achieve 1500 Pcs for 10 hours working shift
• Earned Minute = 1500× 5.5 or 8250 Min
• Available Minute = 22× (10×60) or 13200 Min
• Efficiency = 8250 Min/13200 Minute or 0.625
• Efficiency is expressed as % ,Then Efficiency =(0.625 ×100)% or 62.50%
• Efficiency is a ratio, not a number.
• Efficiency varies with Lead Time and Quantity. More Lead time & Quantity Increase Efficiency, on the other hand, less lead time tends us to use more MP or time to get the required output, so efficiency reduces.

3. Line Target

• Target= (total MP X WH X 60)/SMV
• Suppose We have 22 MP for 10 hr .GMT SMV is 5.5
• Target =(22 X10 X60)/5.5 =2400 PCs/Hr (That is 100% TGT)

• For expected efficiency this 100% Target is multiplied by efficiency to fix Line Target
• Line Target =(2400X.625) ; (Lets , we have expected efficiency of 62.5%) 
  =1500 PCs or 150PCs/Hr

4. CPM and CM                   

CPM Stands for Cost Per Minute which means Cost of every minute of garments sewing operations. To offer the best competitive price to the buyer and make maximum profit on garments selling CPM cost need to be kept at a minimum level.

For Calculating of CPM you need to sum all direct labor cost and any other operational cost for a particular order or for a particular period.

5. CM/COM/MC

• Cost of Making (CM/COM)/Manufacturing cost(MC) have to calculate after calculating factory CPM.
• CM = (SMV × CPM)/ Expected Efficiency%
• Suppose , any GMT item SMV is 4.7, Expected efficiency = 65.8 % , CPM[let] = $0.0267
• CM = (4.7 × .0267)/ .658 
  = $0.19/PCs 
  = ($0.19 ×12)/Dzn 
  =$2.28 /Dzn

6. Broad Calculation of Garments CM

To calculate the Cost of Making of a garment you have to collect the following information:

• First of all, you need to get the monthly information of factory rental expense, commercial expense, utility expenses (Electricity, Steam, Compressed Air, Water), transportation cost, repair & maintenance expenses, salary, and wages expense, etc. suppose for all these expenses the total cost is 70000 USD.
• Secondly, the number of functioning machine for a particular month. Suppose the number of machines is 120. Cost associate in the first section is for this 120 machine.
• You also need the number of machinery to do the layout for the particular item for which we are calculating the cost of making. Suppose the number of machines is 30.
• By using the existing layout, the amount of target production per hour (excluding the alteration and rejection of garments). Suppose 250 pcs per hour production will be there.
• The total number of working days for a particular month. This can be 26 days (30 days a month, 4 days of holiday in a month)

  Operation Breakdown SMV and Layout of Chino Short Pant
  SMV indicates the Standard Minute Value, that is standard time required to make a particular garments. On the basis of SMV you can calculate your cost of your garments and planning to set target of production. Chino short pant SMV is 37.42 and 69 sewing machine will be needed. We shared operation bulletin of Chino long pant in past, now we are sharing Operation Breakdown SMV and Layout of Chino Short Pant.

  
  
  

  

  Operation Breakdown SMV and Layout of Chino Short Pant Manufacturing

  SL.	OPERATION	SMV	TGT
  –	FRONT	–	–
  1	O/L at fr.rise	0.30	200
  2	Bone joint with fr part	0.67	90
  3	Corner cut	0.40	150
  4	Tack at pkt mouth posn	0.67	90
  5	Top stt. At pkt mouth posn	0.75	80
  6	Coin pkt close	0.38	160
  7	Safety tack at  pkt beg corner & W/b Side	0.40	150
  8	Pocketing  matching	0.50	120
  9	Facing joint with Fr  pkting	0.40	150
  10	Pocketing attach at pocket mouth	0.50	120
  11	Front pocket mouth top stitch	0.50	120
  12	Tack at pkt mouth posn	0.43	140
  13	Fr pkt bag close by O/L	0.60	100
  14	pocket bag side tack	0.60	100
  15	Fr pkt bag 1/4 top stt	0.60	100
  16	Pockting & sheel body fab att.at w/b side	0.75	80
  17	O/L at fr.rise	0.30	200
  18	D/ply make & turn over	0.40	150
  19	S/ply & d/ply piping (use folder)	0.40	150
  20	S.ply att. +  1/8  top stt.	0.60	100
  21	Zipper joint at s.ply	0.50	120
  22	J stt  with mark	0.67	90
  23	D. ply att with zipper	0.50	120
  24	Fr zip 1/16″ top stt	0.60	100
  25	High top stt	0.60	100
  26	Care label attach	0.60	100
  27	Total	5.17	–
  SL.	BACK PART	SMV	TGT
  1	Mark flap for making	0.60	100
  2	Flap making (BK)	0.40	150
  3	Flap turn	0.67	90
  4	Scissoring at flap	0.67	90
  5	1/4 Top  stt at Bk pkt flap	0.67	90
  6	Mark at bk part fr dart & bone joint	0.55	110
  7	Dart making	0.46	130
  8	Top stt. At Dart posn	0.40	150
  9	Bk pockting o/l	0.40	150
  10	Bk pockting att. At bk part	0.50	120
  11	Bone making	0.46	130
  12	Mark at bone fr joint	0.50	120
  13	Bone & Flap joint	0.67	90
  14	Bone cutting	1.50	40
  15	Bone mouth inside tack	0.75	80
  16	Bone mouth top lower stt	0.75	80
  17	Facing joint at bk pockting(Bone side)	0.55	110
  18	Bone mouth top upper stt	0.67	90
  19	Facing joint at bk pockting	0.55	110
  20	Bk pkt close	1.50	40
  21	Tack at bk pocket upper side	0.40	150
  22	Back rise joint	0.35	170
  23	top stt at Back rise joint posn	0.50	120
  24	Total	14.45

  SL.	ASSEMBLY	SMV	TGT
  1	Fr to Bk part match	0.48	125
  2	Side seam	0.50	120
  3	Belt Contrast part fusing	0.67	90
  4	Belt piping (use folder)	0.40	150
  5	Chine stt. At w/b contrast part	0.40	150
  6	Two (LOGG & Size) lbl joint	0.30	200
  7	Main lbl joint at  w/b contrast part	0.50	120
  8	potty joint at w/b btn att posn	1.00	60
  9	Extra loop Iron	0.30	200
  10	Extra loop Att. At bk rise	0.35	170
  11	Belt match	0.50	120
  12	Waist belt iron ( use folder)	0.50	120
  13	Belt two part joint	0.50	120
  14	Body mark for loop att.	0.40	150
  15	Loop making	0.40	150
  16	Loop mark & cut	0.60	100
  17	Lbl joint at loop	0.67	90
  18	Loop attach lower side	0.60	100
  19	Belt joint ith body	0.60	100
  20	False tack at w/b	0.60	100
  21	Top att at w/b lower side	0.75	80
  22	Name lbl & care lbl joint	0.46	130
  23	Mouth cut+  trim	0.50	120
  24	Mouth close in side	0.71	85
  25	Mark for zipper psn  + thread open at mouth	0.75	80
  26	Mouth close top side	0.60	100
  27	Inseam	0.60	100
  28	Inseam top stt.	0.55	110
  29	Elastic cutting & mark for joint	0.67	90
  30	Elastic Tack	0.67	90
  31	Leg hem	0.75	80
  32	Loop attach upper side	0.60	100
  –	Total	17.86	–
  –	G TOTAL	37.47	–

  MANPOWER REQUIREMENT	Number
  Snap =	0
  S/N    =	52
  O/L   =	8
  D/N   =	3
  F/O/A  =	0
  BARTACK   =	0
  K/S   =	0
  C/S    =	6
  HELPER   =	20
  IM   =	2
  TOTAL MANPOWER	91
  L/C   =	1
  S.VISOR  =	3
  TOTAL MANPOWER

Cost of Making (CM) Rule

= {(Monthly total expenditure of the garments factory/ 26 days) / (Number of Functioning Machine of your factory for a particular month) X (Number of machine to complete the layout)} / [{(Production capacity per hour by using existing layout, excluding alteration and rejected quantity) X 8 working hours a day}] X 12 piece

= [{($70,000 / 26) / (120) X (30)} / {(250) X 8}] X 12

= [{2692.30 / (120) X (30)} / 2000] X 12

= (673.08 /2000) X 12

= .33654 X 12

= $4.04/dozen

7. Conventional VS Modern Profit Theory

• Conventional : COST + PROFIT = PRICE
• Modern : PRICE – COST = PROFIT

• Price should be moderate to get maximum order!
• Cost should be minimized to get maximum profit!

 9. Work Study                                   

• A systematic study of methods of work to improve effectiveness & set standards
• 2 stages:

1. Method study: study of current method & find out to implement the improved method

2. Work measurement: determine the standard time required to complete improved method

Benefits of Work Study

• Productivity improvement
• Efficiency increase
• Improved workflow
• Improved work layout
• Improved standards

10. Time and Motion Study

• Time study: a work measuring technique to calculate basic time by finding cycle time & adding allowance
• Motion study: a technique to analyze operators motion & set a standard by eliminating unnecessary motion
• Two different theory but need parallel running to improve system known as ‘method engineering’
• Time & motion study is a conjugal technique to process control, improve dissimilar work performance & set standard goals
• IE is a combined package to improve by time study, work study & motion study

11. Line Balancing

• Line balancing is a manufacturing engineering function in which the whole collection of production-line tasks are divided into equal portions.
• Well balanced lines avoid labor idleness & improve productivity
• Line balancing is for keeping workload (theoretical mp/actual mp) as 1 or less than 1 by balancing work as per capacity & target

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